Maury’s vins doux naturels are produced predominantly from the Grenache grape varieties (Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris). They are made in a very similar style to the sweet wines of Banyuls, 35 miles (57km) to the south-east, which also use Grenache. The wines come in red, rosé and white variants, with the color resulting from the exacting winemaking techniques that are employed. In their youth, these wines are tannic and intensely fruity, but they become more savory and deeply colored as they age.

Maury Sec wines also focus on Grenache though the Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignane grape varieties are also permitted. While this is still a small appellation – only 220 hectares (540 acres) were declared in 2014 – the wines have quickly developed a reputation as some of the best full-bodied reds produced in France.

The terrain is dominated by steep limestone cliffs, which mark the beginning of the Pyrenees foothills. High above the town of Maury itself sit the ruins of the 1000-year-old castle of Queribus, a towering landmark which until 1659 was used to defend the French border against the Spanish. It remains today a potent symbol of the local cultures, which are still split between those of France and Spain.

Soils are mainly black schist with some areas of more chalky schist; their quality for grapegrowing played a major part in the relative speed with which the Maury Sec AOC was introduced. Vineyards lie between 100 and 400 meters altitude, and Grenache from some of the higher sites can show more finesse than many examples from elsewhere in Southern France, even if alcohol levels can still easily reach 15 percent abv.

Production here is dominated by a small number of co-operatives and a few smaller, independent producers. The area also makes characterful dry red and white wines under the title IGP Cotes Catalanes.